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Repair Help

TroubleShooting Tips
 
Water Filters:
 
1) If your Refrigerator or RO System has an Indicator Light(a light which lets you know basically the status of the filter or filters-when to replace the filter-s), and it is Yellow, you should replace the filter(s) and flush the system. Do not wait untill the light turns Red. When you do, you will have to flush at least 2 gallons of water(sometimes up to 7 gallons) before you have clear-good tasting and smelling water.
2) If your water tastes bad, or has an odor to it, try flushing a gallon out of the system and checking the water again. If the water is still bad tasting or smelling-Replace the Water Filter(s).
3) Is your water flow rate real slow or slower than normal? If so, you need to check your filter ie: Date of last install(always put date of install on filter-usually an ink pen will write on the label of filter). If the filter has been in for at least 3 months, it is a good sign to try replaceing the filter.
4) If your flow rate is still not normal after changing the water filter, you would need to check the flow rate comming from your water source ie:(where the water line originates-under sink-behind the refrigerator-etc.). Water line tap valves are a good place to check because they get develop a build-up of lime and scale from the water.
5) If flow rate is good to the refrigerator, and the filter has been changed(or has less than 3 months of use), You would need to check your refrigerator water valve (See TroubleShooting Tips for Water Valves).
6) Tips for Reverse Osmosis Systems. Most people do not understand that the pre-filter(s) of a RO system require replaceing at least every 4 months. The post-filter(usually looks like a refrigerator in-line filter) should be changed each 6 months. The RO Membrane should be replaced Once A Year! If these scheduals are kept up, you will find your water quality much better.
 
Refrigerator Tips:
 
MY REFRIGERATOR RUNS ALL THE TIME and the Temp. Inside The Refrigerator Is Warmer Than Normal, What Should I Check?
A. Temp. in freezer should be 5 degrees or lower. If not, check for frost build-up on back wall of freezer. If there is a build-up of frost, your problem is with the defrost system (heater, termination thermostat, or defrost timer).
B. Check door seals to see if they close snug. You can check this by simply closing the door on a dollar bill and then pull the bill out. If the bill comes out easy(no snug-ness), you would need to try to either reform the door gasket-door-or replace the gasket if torn or ripped.
C. Check the Fan Motor in the Freezer, and make sure that it is Running. If not, check the door switch and fan motor.
D. If the unit has a condensor fan motor(back of refrigerator at the bottom), make sure it is running. If not, check the motor.
E. Check to see if the light stays on when the door is closed. Believe it or not, it happens. To test this, open the door and push the door switch down. If the light stays on, replace the door switch.
 
Water Valve Tips:
 
WATER SOLENOID VALVE TEST
1. Check the water supply line (make sure that you are getting the proper water pressure to the water solenoid valve). Self tapping 'Saddle Type Valves' and or Under-Sink Reverse Osmosis Units can restrict the flow of water to the Refrigerator Water Solenoid Valve. Should be at least a full 1/4" non-restricted flow at the water supply valve!

2. If the water inlet tube is frozen over with ice (not letting water pass into the ice maker), this is a sign of a leaking water valve. The water Solenoid Valve should be replaced.

3. Checking a Dual Water Valve: (Make sure the water inlet tube is clear!) Take the 2 wires from one solenoid and put them on the other solenoid and vice versa . Then put a glass to the door,(like you are getting water from the door) for 7-9 seconds. Then check the icemaker and see if water is in the ice maker. If no water is in the ice maker, change the water valve. (Don't forget to put the wires back as they were).
 
Ice Maker Tips:
2 Types Of IceMakers:
(Modular Style) Whirlpool, Amana, Maytag and Kenmore (106.),(596.) Series Refrigerators, use the Modular Style Crescent Heat Release Ice Maker. 
(Mechanical Style) U-Line, Frigidaire, Kenmore (253.Series) Refrigerators use the Mechanical Style Ice Maker. Also GE Before 2002. 

Basically - How An Ice Maker Works: 
When ice maker reaches 5 degrees, the thermostat closes and the ice maker motor starts turning. Then the heater turns on to loosten the cubes in the mold so they can eject. The ejector bar(rake) pushes the ice out of the mold. The heater turns off as the thermostat opens (due to the heat from the heater). Then the water solenoid valve is sent the signal to let water into the ice maker. This completes the batch as the motor stops. If any of these steps do not happen, you need to replace the ice maker.
 
Ice Maker Not Getting Water:
A. Make sure that the wire arm is all the way down.
B. Check to see if the water is turned on.
C. Check Water Filter (if equipped), to see if water flows thru the filter. If not, replace the Water Filter.
D. Check to see if the water inlet tube (in freezer) is plugged with ice. If so, Change Water Valve.

My Ice Cubes Are Hollow:
A. When the ice cubes are hollow, it usually means that the ice maker is not getting enough water. Check the Water Solenoid Valve and water supply going to the valve.

Ice Maker Not Dumping the Ice:
A. Check temp. of the freezer to see if it 5 degrees or colder. If not, set the temp. colder.
B. Does Ice Maker Cycle(rotate)? If not, replace Ice Maker, (if temp. is 5 degrees F or colder)!
C. If the ejector bar(rake) is hitting the ice, but not pushing the ice out, It usually means that the heater is bad. Replace the icemaker.
D. If your ice maker has a P.C. Control Optics Board instead of the wire arm(usually on models with the vertical dispenser in the freezer door), you will have to check the Optics Control Board also.
 
1 Or 2 Cubes Laying on Top of Icemaker:
1 Or 2 Cubes Laying on Top of Icemaker or Getting Jammed!
If the ice is not the same size for all the cubes - 1 or 2 are real small - the small cubes would not eject properly and therefore end up on top of the icemaker.
1) Take out the icemaker.
2) Then empty the icemaker.
3) Then Install the icemaker.
4) Then let it fill with water.
5) Then take the icemaker out and see if every cube is full of water. If 1 or 2 do not have water in them, or is real low, those cubes would not eject out all the way when the icemaker ejects the cubes.
6) If this is the case, Check your water supply, and(or), the water solenoid valve.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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